Noon by Noor | London Fashion Week AW25
Words by Molly Boniface, Photographs by Benjamin Fraser
“Sometimes, it is important to take a moment and look around at the things that surround us–a moment to reflect before moving forward, cultivating an identity that is truly ours.”
Shaikha Noor Rashid Al Khalifa and Shaikha Haya Mohamed Al Khalifa of Noon by Noor presented their AW25 collection in Somerset House’s River Rooms. The space, which is a particularly important facet of the neoclassical palace, presents original fireplaces and exposed brick archways. Spotlighted as they appeared through the entrance, the models’ reflections became exaggerated on the slick, dark floor. We watched in awe as this effect created a watery mirror image of the runway beneath our feet. Noon by Noor’s collection was impacted by the architectural landscape of Bahrain. The works drew specific inspiration from Swiss architect Christian Kerez’s transformation of car parks into avenues to communal art spaces. The fluidity of the purpose of these functional and imposing structures became central in the works’ creation. The colour palette was mostly pared back: ivory, caramel, brown, grey, and black. Neutrals became centrefold, when a series of palm green pieces boldly disrupted the monochrome. The black pieces were presented first. Plunging necklines contradicting precise tailoring and strong shoulders consistently arrived with each piece. Each garment represented a play on traditional business wear; ruched waist blazers, dropped necklines on otherwise A-line dresses, and pencil skirts with unremitting cinch hemlines, contorted once rigid shapes. Each garment symbolised fluidity as it necessitated a reimagination of traditional silhouettes. Keeping in theme, makeup was barely-there apart from a crimson or dark chocolate statement lip. Fabric embellishments on the garments created interesting shapes, leaving otherwise gauche accessories for those off-runway. Wool tweeds were stripped, frayed,and reapplied alongside tulle, thus creating a sense of movement and whimsy within the fabrics.
The standout piece was the MATTIAS Coat that was stitched in brown and black herringbone tweed. Mid-calf length, the garment hung effortlessly across the model’s frame, as if it were designed specifically for them. Wide sleeves, deep pockets, V necks, and trench inspired storm caps - combined to create a draping effect. The ‘frazzled English woman’ archetype would be very at home, bumbling through the city in this chic take on the oversized piece. “Each look was designed to whisper quietly yet make a bold statement - defined, precise, unmistakably Noon by Noor”. Noon by Noor’s AW25 Collection was a love letter to nuanced structure, with precision centreing at the core of this season’s works.
