Elie Saab | Haute Couture SS’25
Words Vicky Madzak
After celebrating the brand’s 45th anniversary in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia last November, Elie Saab enchanted his audience at Paris Fashion Week. The Haute Couture SS25 collection, ‘Portrait Of A Dream’, was inspired by ‘the romantic radiance of an Impressionist garden’. The mostly self-taught designer rose to fame due to his exhilarating take on bridal fashion. The intricate works often include detailed embroidery, gemstones, crystals, and pearls, naturally emphasizing these staples and using them as a through line which runs through the entire collection.
Piano music accompanied the models down the runway, set between three arches in dimmed light. Noteworthy famous faces could be spotted among them—including, former Victoria’s Secret Angel Candice Swanepoel, Joan Small, Romeo Strijd, and Stella Maxwell. Additionally, actress Eva Longoria, models Rosie Huntington Whiteley, and Polly Delevigne were present—all hoping to witness the designer’s glamour in real time.
A centrefold element which could be seen interspersed throughout the awe-striking 58 looks were florals, delicate petals grazed models’ shoulders, arms, and chests. As they cascaded down long skirts and dresses, the ‘fragile exuberance of spring’ was perfectly captured. Beads and gemstones were utilised liberally, reminiscent of crisp droplets on foliage, and skin. The detail-oriented garments vividly reflected the sunlight on a beautiful spring morning. Nude tones and soft pastels in pink, purple, green, and light grey amalgamated to create the collection’s main colour palette.
Despite the consistency of the colour wheel in use, a few looks in lime, gold, black, off-white, and denim were also highlighted. A recurrent theme, specifically with regard to garment shape, seemed to romance the natural female silhouette. corsets, deep V-necks, and fishtail bottoms, all came into frame alongside asymmetric off-the-shoulder designs and thigh-high slits. While most looks consisted of long dresses and chiffon skirts, the designer incorporated elegant wide bootleg pants with pockets into the runways’ lineup. Makeup was kept simple in nude tones, long hair slicked back in buns, and footwear was simple, appearing in the way of colour-coordinated high heels. Strapless designs were paired with thin, embroidered capes embossed with beads and gemstones. All the while, long satin bolero-esque jackets with big, bunched-up sleeves, or long mesh gloves made their decadent appearances.
The masterpiece of the collection was a nude bridal look with see-through, pedal-covered sleeves, suggesting blooming cherry blossom branches. Meticulous embroidery adorned its corset top positioned above a crystal-embellished tulle skirt. The veil matched the dress’ train in length and was affixed to a flower crown.
Elie Saab successfully blended fashion with art, feminine curves with delicate details, and the jovial energy which indicates “spring has sprung” into Haute Couture. The Beirut native told Vogue that “Fashion can convey a powerful message of positivity, hope and humanity”, especially after Lebanon has experienced a tremendously turbulent time. Saab beckons us to look forward to a blooming, and hopefully peaceful, spring.
